The reduction in dessert orders due to health concerns and meal expense is obvious in the fickle world of dining out. But get a few bevvies under diners’ belts and no-one cares about any of that anymore. We’re having too good a time to stop there! Enter the smart restauranteur.

OK, I’m going out on a bit of a limb here. I have forever been a little perplexed about the complex issue of pairing wines with dessert. Just when I think I’ve got it right, I’m stumped by another complete mismatch that throws it all up in the air again.