Back to the Pearl
It was a long time ago that Hong Kong was known as “The Pearl of the Orient”. Now, it is referred to as the rather unglamorous “Asia’s World City”. 2019 certainly feels like a very long time ago. That was the last time I set foot in the city, one that holds many wonderful memories through some pivotal times in my life over the past two decades.
After the chaos of the pandemic, the pro-democracy riots and the National Security laws, I let go of the idea of returning. Where would my dollars go? Why would I support a city with such lack of freedom? Recently I began to consider that it may be time to return, to see how things are in this new era for the city. I felt the best way to do this was to stay at three luxury hotels that play an important part in the city and its presentation to visitors, and to see how they have adapted in a city where so many backward steps have finally given way to moving forward. Great idea for an article, I thought!
Upon arrival and throughout my week in the city it was obvious that the buzz and electric vibe of the Hong Kong I remember had lessened somewhat. However, there is still a feeling excitement here. It's not quite "on the pulse", but it is here. You can feel the energy rising, albeit cautiously.
I could have chosen several top hotels, but the point of this was to see how three famed luxe properties are faring now. I chose an old grande dame, a relative newbie of a highly respected brand, and a well-established glamour puss that has recently been renovated.
Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong
First up, I found it fitting to start out where it all began, at a luxury classic for over 60 years. It began as The Mandarin and became the first Mandarin Oriental after a complete renovation in 2006. I have long admired the brand, they are the pinnacle of Asian luxury and manage a fine blend of East West aesthetics. I am indeed “a fan”.
Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong.
Upon its opening in 1963, it was the first hotel in Asia to have direct-dial telephones and a bathtub in every room. This led the architect of the hotel to ask, “are the guests amphibious?" The 2006 renovation completely transformed the hotel, bringing it into the 21st century whilst still retaining its soul. The hotel has been at the forefront of luxury ever since, and is the flagship of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group.
Back at the beginning.
So how does it feel today? Originally the tallest building in the city, it is now engulfed by skyscrapers but still stands proudly and stately, reverberating with a million stories. It is a living hotel, a pulsating hub for locals and guests, a meeting zone humming around the clock.
After arrival from the airport, I was whisked away by supremely attentive staff who led me swiftly to check-in which was handled seamlessly. It was all so fast there was little time to get a sense of the lobby. The lobby of a luxe hotel is one of the most important elements, and one of the most difficult to get right.
That first impression, the feeling it exudes, is paramount. Eventually, I came to examine the space. It feels crowded, the lack of openness very apparent. In such a prime location right in the heart of Central, the hotel is far less grand these days than the flagship hotels of today are. Once you have more than a dozen or so people in the small space given over to the lobby, it feels cramped.
The use of black marble throughout feels dated now, and the area alongside where guests can lounge is limited and feels more akin to a small living room, with lack of space again the issue. The floor directly above seems to have been constructed awkwardly. It's a three-way corridor, with one a path to Café Causette, another the path to the buffet restaurant, and the other the path to the elevators to the upper floor guest rooms. I saw guests confused about which way to go an many occasions during my stay. So much turning back and then back again. Something about the layout causes disorientation.
Second floor elevator landing
From second floor elevators to three-way corridor
The hotel rests on its storied history. It will always be a special part of Hong Kong. But there is no denying the limitations now present on bringing the hotel up to the five-star standards expected by today's discerning luxury travellers. It would take a complete top to bottom renovation including reconfigured and resized rooms, providing more height and width, to make this a reality. For now, the history and service are what brings back loyal guests. Many from Britain, they populate the Captain's Bar and the Mandarin Grill, both long-standing lauded establishments that cater to the somewhat standoffish and demanding wealthy from those parts.
It is the facilities here that unite travellers from all over the world and the citizens of Hong Kong. This is one of the cities bustling "living rooms", a place to meet and connect. The cavalcade of restaurants and bars include the world's only Krug Room (hello, decadence!), the Mandarin Grill + Bar, michelin-starred cantonese Man Wah, chic Cafe Causette, the British inspired The Chinnery and the fore-mentioned watering hole, The Captains Bar.
The most recent entry is the eccentric and very popular Japanese izakaya, The Aubrey. This is the IT spot of the hotel, and for me, the one venue that moves the hotel into the now, appealing to all ages.
The Aubrey
With 432 guestrooms and 62 luxurious suites, Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong caters for a large clientele. My room was very comfortable, but I could see where renovations and remodeling had taken place. Different celling heights, somewhat awkward spaces and dated fixtures and fittings. The black marble bathroom and very 90’s curved sink taps also date the room.
Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong corridor
Bedroom towards enclosed “terrace” style lounge and work space
After three nights, I was ready to move on. That in itself says something. For when luxury hotels get it absolutely right, you don't want to leave. That is a hotels ultimate goal, to instill that desire in you to stay.
Hong Kong is not vast, so relocating from Central to Wan Chai was easy. Although the car from the MO did take 15 minutes from exiting the hotel to Queens Road Central. Seems like the traffic has not changed in all these years.
St. Regis hotel exterior
St. Regis Hong Kong
Pulling up to St. Regis was memorable. A new build, this has a classic wide luxury hotel driveway, with a rather spectacular walled waterfall to greet guests. I was attentively whisked from car to the lobby floor, known as The Great Room, for my 12pm early check-in. And what a lobby! Massive high ceilings and dramatic features are a feast for the eye right from the outset. Famed Hong Kong based designer Andre Fu has captured the spirit of the St Regis New York whilst remaining true to iconic Hong Kong. Drawing on the city's distinctive historical architecture and culture, Fu has created classic sophistication in what is conceived as an urban mansion.
The Great Room is the true hub of the hotel, grand and impressive and calming all at the same time. passing by the discreet reception desks, one glides through a series of open-plan lounges for relaxation and onto an open-air terrace. The scale is grand and intimate at the same time. Quite a feat.
The Great Room in the evening.
The colour palette is subdued with earthly greys and whites, juxtaposed with textural panels in terracotta and jade. Details are everywhere. Most notable for me, some vintage forms that hark back to a more glamorous time. Standing out proudly are cut-glass pendants which are a nod to the 19th century Rochester-model glass lamps on Duddell Street. These give the softest glow. For it is lighting that is pitch-perfect here. Just at the right level, never harsh, soft, welcoming. For me, it’s a make-or-break element for atmosphere and mood.
Artwork is also one of the hotels strongest points. Everywhere, glorious works create superb counterpoints to the dramatic architectural forms and artisanal shapes and furnishings, all of which were also designed by the architect.
Inside the guest rooms, a mix of styles provides a soothing atmosphere. Fu sourced an eclectic collection of unique ceramics and objects from his art connections and personal travels to add to the residential feel of this urban oasis. Gorgeous beds of extreme comfort are crowned by headboards whose design is inspired by the traditional shutters of the old buildings in the city. Elegant and contemporary, the rooms are loving tributes to Hong Kong homes past and present.
I dined at both Michelin starred restaurants within the hotel, Run, the cantonese fine diner and L'Envol, the signature French restaurant. Both were superb experiences with fantastic food and exemplary service. Run, however, had an absolute x-factor for me. Walking into that room took my breath away. Another Andre Fu design, I would go far as to say it is one of the most gorgeous dining rooms I've ever seen. Dining at Run is pure theatre.
Superbly designed with height and expertly judged space, the room is both traditional and contemporary. What Fu has achieved is a lightness of touch, and an air of softness, even when the room is full, which it almost always is. Designed in the vein of a Chinese tea pavilion, one cannot help but be captivated by the mastery on show in the creation of what, for me, is one of the most comfortable dining rooms I know. I found it stunning and quite unforgettable.
Run restaurant.
No mention of St. Regis Hong Kong can pass without the hotels exemplary service. I was greeted by name from every member of the staff throughout my stay. I had innumerable conversations with everyone from the GM, the sales & marketing director, to the service team in the restaurants. There is a friendly attitude here that truly stands out. Luxury can be relaxed and effortless. This is on full display here. A team who are so in tune with each other. It began to feel that this was somewhere I belonged. In just three days! And therein lies that difference. For I absolutely did not want to leave. And even with my next stop considered one of the best hotels in the city and in the world!
St. Regis Bar.
Stylish seating nook in the light filled guest room.
One of the finest factors St. Regis has is their Butler Service. A crack team of Butlers cater to every guest’s whim, night and day, 24/7. From entry level rooms through to the top suites, everyone gets this service. It is such a premium addition to the hotel that it makes everyone feel like royalty. The butlers are available at the touch of a button, they will make tea in your room, draw your bath, attend to your every need. What an incredible plus this is.
It may not have the knockout harbour views, but if you have done that before in other hotels and value what is offered above all else plus love the neighbourhood it is in, then you cannot go wrong. St. Regis Hong Kong is an immaculately functioning urban oasis that is 100% focused on the finest hospitality, which it nails at every level. I found it unforgettable and one of my top stays in many years.
I left there reluctantly. I didn't feel it would be possible to have a better hotel experience in Hong Kong. St. Regis, after showering me with farewell gifts, gave me a complimentary chauffeured ride to my next destination, the famed Four Seasons Hong Kong.
Four Seasons Hong Kong
Arriving there, there is a calm wow factor. A large but never over-the-top lobby with numerous lounging spaces is instantly impressive. Decked out during my visit for Chinese New Year, it has an air of celebration. Everyone checks out everybody. But it is not as bad as that sounds. The space makes everyone feel special. Just that much better about themselves. It feels like an event, right around the clock.
After opening in 2005 and wowing the then bustling city, it didn't take long for Four Seasons Hong Kong to jump in position as the best luxury hotel in the city. Apart from the showstopping position with knockout harbour views to Kowloon and up through Victoria Harbour, it's many fine dining restaurants achieved the highest accolades and numerous Michelin stars.
Upon opening it raised the bar for luxury in Hong Kong. With its reimagined renovation, it has raised that bar again. Perched on the edge of Victoria Harbour, the glass enclosed tower stands tallest over its neighbours, every room offering that harbour view.
The hotel underwent an extensive renovation as recently as 2022, in an effort to maintain market position, in a rapidly expanding luxury hotel scene. I certainly found a luxury hotel of understated magnificence.
Every corner of the hotel has been reimagined, with the feeling of a luxury home. My breath was taken away by the warmth and style of the design, the materials used and the striking attention to detail.
The renovation included a brand new look for all 399 guest rooms and suites. Inside, the feeling is of a well curated home. Nothing has been spared. New furniture, fixtures, fabrics, millwork and finishes. Everything is exquisite. The rich heritage of Hong Kong is reflected through timeless, refined design that connects old and new.
One element I found to be incredibly beautiful. Upon exiting the elevator and heading to the rooms on each floor, one passes through a lift lobby that is curated with Chinese inspired elements balanced with modern pieces that evokes a contemporary elegance. A striking and soothing feature that I've never seen the likes of before.
The walls in the corridors are covered with the most beautiful fabrics, in a pattern that screams understated luxury. Four Seasons Hong Kong has succeeded in reflecting what is for me, the highest level of deluxe comfort.
The "welcome back to your home" concept has been adopted by many luxury hotel brands. Nowhere else have I seen this so true than here. This stay pushed the hotel in one of my best stays during all my years of travel.
The service is so spot on, it is a lesson to all hoteliers of how it is done. Four Seasons, as a most distinguished brand, has a Golden Rule, which is "to treat others how we want to be treated". This shows itself in spades.
The rooms present as elegant and contemporary tributes to Hong Kong homes past and present. Effortlessly comfortable, they are cocoons of subtle and playful luxury. I was upgraded to a Deluxe Harbour View Room, and it was one of the most comfortable hotel rooms I have ever stayed in.
As a side note, this is only the third Four Seasons I have stayed at. The others, Four Seasons Otemachi in Tokyo and Four Seasons in Singapore, alerted me to just how excellent the company is. It's like a magnetic pull. You will be treated warmly, considerately and like a friend who has been welcomed home. You feel the brand in classic and understated ways.
What has stood out so vividly for me after this trip is the service factor. I have had numerous trips to Japan and Singapore over the past couple of years, and now, after Hong Kong, I am one hundred percent convinced that the very best hospitality in the world is to be found in Asia. The luxury hotels in the region are the best examples of what is a very fine art.
I may be generalising, but service in Europe, UK, the Americas and Australia just does not compare. It isn't just the professionalism. It's the way in which it is conducted. There is an air of the casual, the friendly. The obvious team work. As a frequent solo traveler I bear witness to this every time. Anyone working in hospo or as a creative affiliate would do well to spend time in Asia to see just how perfect it can be.
In the end, it was so good to have spent the week in Hong Kong. It may well be the last of the Asian cities to bounce right back from darker times. Goodness knows, it was always going to take longer here after all they have been through. But the people are still friendly, easy going, inquisitive, cheeky and interested in you. They maintain their own identity as Hongkongers. Whilst so many left, it's the ones who remain that are bastions of the city. And it is rising again. I'm happy to have seen it at this stage. And I look forward to stepping back in to see its progress. Hong Kong remains a fabulous city quite like no other.
FOOTNOTE
In the years I have been away from the city, so called "progress", at least in the government’s eyes, continued unabated. This includes the further demise of neon signs across the city. One of the true symbols of post war Hong Kong, these were iconic. This may be rooted in nostalgia, but the move to LED is hardly a replacement.
I wrote a short article on the neons of Hong Kong in a much earlier article, The Vanishing Dragon. During this trip I went on a small hunt to see what remains. I’m in the process of updating the article to reflect the current state of play. Watch out for it in the next edition of Mr. Robinson — Coming soon!