Who's Umami?
It’s a word that’s talked about often in food circles, discussed and argued about many times over. Some are divided about whether the term is legit, and what it really means. Just what IS this umami?
Entering the common food vocabulary several years back, umami is now considered that extra special taste, one that chef’s and home cooks strive for, that elusive flavour that lifts a dish from great to simply unforgettable.
Umami is officially considered the “fifth-taste” after sweet, sour, salt and bitter. Our mouths do recognise this extra element, which can best be described simply as savoury. A Japanese word, Umami translates loosely as “yummy” and “deliciousness”. This is cute (as are most things Japanese) but it hardly explains the taste. The description I think is the most accurate is “a pleasant savoury taste”
To me, the best food that reveals this umami, is the very basis of much Japanese food, Dashi. This rich and delicate stock is made from Kombu (kelp) and bonito flakes. It is a flavour base that maintains its lovely, distinctive flavour in all dishes it is used in. Unlike many western stocks, Dashi is ever-present as a taste from first mouthful to last. It cannot be singularly described as any of the other four tastes. It is its own, unique entity.
So, to have umami in other dishes, particularly Western foods, can be challenging. There is no doubt it often occurs by chance. It is also very difficult to isolate umami as a singular taste. The other four tastes are easy, we know when food is sweet, salty, sour or bitter. But when do we truly know (or say) a food is umami?
Think of it as an extra layer of flavour. Perhaps it’s a richness that underlies a particular food. Long, slow cooking is a receptor of bringing umami to a dish. The secondary development that occurs from the amalgamation of flavours.
Umami actually comes from glutamates and chemicals called ribonucleotides which occur naturally in a great variety of foods. MSG, usually considered a no-no for health in many circles, is actually the chemical version of umami, not the preferred way of achieving this desirable fifth sense. It’s the cheap way out.
Umami is specifically found in high-protein foods. However, it’s the combination of certain foods that produces heightened levels of umami. This is the amazing thing about it. Some of the world’s classic combination dishes are true examples of all five senses on high alert, the umami a layer burning brightly within.
Think Tagliatelle Bolognaise, that classic North Italian national treasure, done traditionally, rich with parmesan cheese on top. In fact, parmesan is one of the great precursors to achieving umami. Try putting Parmesan on Chocolate – it is something quite amazing. Fermented foods are another source of umami. Think vegemite or its English cousin, Marmite. That savoury slickness. That yeasty thickness that has a taste all its own.
The addition of fish sauce to bolognaise sauce is another interesting example of umami. When I first tried this recently, it took my recipe (which I considered to be almost perfect) to a whole new level. Just the smallest amount of Megachef Fish Sauce (the best in the world) created a whole other flavour spectrum and made my rich sauce world-beating. Well, at least to me.
To get a sense of the wonderful world of umami, here are some foods that are high in glutamate, therefore boasting high amounts of umami:
Aged beef (think Wagyu hamburger with bacon and cheese - the crowd-pleasing favourite!)
Bacon & Cured Hams
Tomatoes
Seaweeds
Soy Beans (soy sauce, miso)
Aged Cheeses (parmigiano reggiano is the greatest exponent of umami)
Oysters, Clams and Shellfish
Fish (Anchovies, Dried Sardines, Bonito Flakes)
Green Tea
Dried Mushrooms
Think about this list. These foods easily cover the wide spectrum of umami. They are salty, yes, but the levels of savouriness are what stands them apart.
Umami remains a mystery to many diners and is very misunderstood. Being so unobvious is perhaps what makes it so special. Think about this when you have your next dish that blows your mind. It is most likely the reason that you are having a food epiphany is because of the umami sensation that is causing your taste buds to go wild.
It is the greatest flavour booster and boasts many health benefits, along with the power to supress appetite. It’s a win-win on every level. So worth seeking out, or creating it through combinations of ingredients, umami makes food and the pleasure surrounding it an even more wondrous thing. So do try that Dark Chocolate and Parmesan combo. You won’t regret it!