The Uni Path to Heaven

How often is it that you discover a food with a taste so singular it can’t be described as being like any other? I can’t think of many.

The one that is forefront in my mind (on a very regular basis) is that miraculous creature from the bottom of the oceans, the Sea Urchin. My personal discovery back in 2010, of this unusual, inedible looking animal, covered in sharp spines, is one I’ll never forget. In fact, many of my culinary experiences that involve this animal are memorable to the point of “best ever” moments.

I’m very glad that pinnacle food memories are often tied up with much more than the dish. The best moments are tied to a certain place, a mood you were in, often a perfect moment, somewhere you’ll never forget.

Well this is how the humble sea urchin entered my world and changed me forever. On the island of Ortigia, that magnificent offshoot of Syracusa in Sicily, I sat down to lunch one glorious day at a cute small restaurant I spotted near the fish markets, with small set tables outside, sheltered from the sun. Nothing that special to look at. A nice setting, quite simple.

The daily changing blackboard menu at Il Divino Mare listed so many delights, all in Italian, which I was happy about. I had read that Sea Urchin was a specialty of the island when in season, and the trip was very much about trying as many local foods as I could.

So, I spotted it. Being a pasta lover, I wanted to try it this way, in a subtle dish, so I could get the essence of the animal coming though. I ordered Linguine Con Ricci de Mare.

To accompany it, I chose the local indigenous white wine, Insolia, which turned out to be a perfect match. To say that the dish was a revelation, is an understatement. This was the single best dish I had in a decade. I had never tasted anything so sublime in so long. One mouthful was all it took. It’s probably just as well there were not many people around, or no one snapped a shot of me. As I know I dropped my utensils and rolled my head back, with my eyes up to the heavens as if I had touched the face of God. I do believe the owner saw me. I have no doubt he would have been amused.

Every single mouthful of that dish I can remember. I ate it ever so slowly, as I tend to do when something is so incredible. Those studs of urchin, bright orange, super fresh, had a flavour so delicious, my every taste bud was in spasm. Cooked simply in white wine and a reduced stock, it was that urchin that was the shining star of the dish. I have yet to experience a better version of sea urchin pasta, and I have waxed lyrical about the restaurant to many. I have returned to dine there so many times and every meal has been marvellous.

Ricci being Italian for Sea Urchin, Uni the Japanese name. For the purpose of this article moving forward, I’ll stick to uni, as my further experiences in Japan outnumber those in Italy.

So, yes. To Japan. It’s a known fact that the most highly prized uni in the world is harvested off Hokkaido, in Northern Japan. There are several varieties, all with subtle flavour profiles of their own. It’s not known as the Caviar of The Sea for nothing.

Uni stars in many of the very best sushiya’s all over Japan. In Tokyo, I have had such divine morsels of uni I am sure that my contorted, head back, eyes rolling, seen the face of God face was in full view to all, particularly at an 8-seater counter with chef right in front of me. But I know he would be used to it. I am certainly not alone in my adoration for this delicacy.

At Sawada, the impossible to get into 2 Michelin starred sushiya in Ginza, chef stuffs a single wrapped, crisp nori so full of uni that it looks like a small mountain. I may have counted him placing around 10 tongues of uni into the nori. Shoving that giant mound of unbelievably fresh, creamy goodness into my mouth in one go on my first visit there was another one of my top 10 unforgettable food moments. I just can’t describe the intensity, richness and utter deliciousness of that moment. I was lucky I didn’t explode right then and there.

Jumping forward now a few years, my most recent “wow!” experience was multiplied several times by an endless parade of uni, that could have gone on all evening if I chose it too. I consider my lucky discovery of Sushi Takamitsu in Tokyo to be one of my best. For here, at this locals favourite sushiya, is a chef whose love of uni knows no bounds. And his love of sharing does as well. As a main feature of a truly stunning omakase, when uni comes to town, you’d better be ready. On top of his Louis Vuitton display cases is where the uni is presented. Boxes and boxes of them. Six or more different varieties.

It’s the only restaurant I’m aware of where you have this incredible choice. It’s an uni lover’s paradise. I was stunned at this and loved the opportunity of being able to taste the different varieties as well as reordering my favourites, as many times as I wanted to. At Takamitsu, I have found uni heaven. I will forever pray at that temple.

There’s no doubt that uni is having its moment in the sun (so to speak) Strongly on the radars of foodies, food bloggers and seafood fans all over the world, it’s everywhere now, prized as a delicacy and served up in top restaurants in all manner of fashions.

It’s one of those foods though, that is best unadorned with too much complication. The flavour is so intense and mouth-watering that it really does not need interference coming from all directions.

It’s not everyone’s thing. I imagine it’s more the texture than the taste. Surely? As that taste is one I can’t imagine anyone disliking. I’m glad not many people do. More for me. Perhaps it’s the knowledge when people find out they are eating reproductive organs, as that’s pretty much all that makes up this unique animal. But what delicious gonads they are! Best I’ve eaten, I must say.

I proclaim sea urchin as my desert island food. My very last meal would be eating those tongues straight out of the shell or tossed through pasta. Back at Il Divino Mare. Oh, yes please!

I have maintained contact with the few restaurants where I had my epiphany uni moments, as every experience demands repeating. I’ll be back at Il Divino Mare this year and I look forward to reporting back with hopefully, another discovery like that first one. One that is life-changing and unforgettable, one that sets me on a new trajectory in the food stratosphere. In the meantime, I intend to go to uni heaven and back as many times as I can.