Vertical Joy

There are many great joys in having an extensive wine cellar, the most obvious being the enjoyment of a long cellared wine that you almost forgot you had, one that’s been quietly in slumber for many years, waiting for you to finally choose it and hoping you’ll be amazed at how gracefully it has aged.

For me though, the greatest pleasure comes from owning a variety of vintages of one particular favourite wine and doing a vintage comparison. I am proud to have several “verticals” in my cellar. For the uninitiated, a vertical is a number of vintages, often consecutive, of one individual wine.

Perhaps my most prestigious vertical is one of the wines that blew me away upon first tasting it, a wine that ignited a spark in me to discover the magnificent Cabernet based wines of Western Australia’s Margaret River region. The wine is the Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon. Long considered one of Australia’s greatest vinous treasures, it has gone from strength to strength, with remarkable consistency in every vintage. I have proudly purchased this every year since 1989 and have never been disappointed.

Recently opened bottles of the 1994 and 1995 vintages has proven the wine to be extremely long lived. So fresh, vibrant and still youthful, the secondary characters are there but have smoothed out the wine to play a glorious part in its long, slowly evolving life. Rippling, velvety tannins across a broad fruit spectrum of ripe dark fruits, chocolate and tobacco. Magnificent.

Another vertical I have is a cool climate stunner from Victoria’s Macedon Ranges, the Curly Flat Pinot Noir. When I first discovered the wine, at a point when Pinot Noir was still finding its feet and its individual regional stamps in Australia, I was struck by its complex savoury character. At the time very new world, the vines with years ahead of them to produce what is now a distinct, classic wine of Australia.

Playing a part in the development of my palate to what it is today, a hungry, devouring, deciphering discoverer of classic styles and of new, wonderful sensations, this particular pinot is now considered one of the country’s finest. 19 Vintages in and it is so on song.

A mini-tasting of three consecutive excellent vintages, the 2011, ’12 and ’13 was joyous. All excellent, it is fascinating to compare the differences.

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The 2011 is drinking superbly right now, the lifted nose of raspberry, dark cherry and cranberries melded with some spice notes. On the palate its acidity is prominent with the cranberry and savoury notes rippling through on the tongue. There’s a touch of leather too, it adds another dimension.

DRINK OR HOLD 3+ YEARS

The 2012 is truly multi-layered. The nose is a wild array of deep strawberry along with grilled meats, a play between animal and vegetable, savoury and spicy. It’s a richer beast than the 2011 on the palate, along with the ripe red fruits is obvious chocolate, with a velvet like tannin structure. It drinks well but this screams to be cellared a little longer. Glorious stuff.

DRINK 3 – 10 YEARS

The 2013 is beautiful. Again, savoury and spicy, hallmarks of this wine. The nose has a more herbal note with some violet florals cutting through. A lovely, lifted perfume that develops slowly in the glass. The palate brings a powerful mix of ripe red fruits and acidity cutting through the lovely spiciness. Rich and complex.

DRINK 6 – 10+ YEARS

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All three wines are superb. Tasting them all together shows the wines regional style developing harmoniously. The vintage variation is also there, although subtle. This is a great Australian Pinot Noir, one that stands alone as a unique style. This has made me want to visit – Macedon Ranges being one of the few Australian wine regions I have not made the pilgrimage to.

I have a 2001 dozing away in my Eurocave, that will be a true test of this wines development and longevity. Stand by for a follow up report when the day comes to release it from its long slumber.

Cheers!
Mr. R